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The articles
Each one a single question, answered in full.
Arriving in Verona by car when the old center is a limited-traffic zone
Verona's historic center is a camera-watched limited-traffic zone. Who may drive in, what hotel guests must do, and where visitors leave the car instead.
Choosing between Lake Garda and Venice for a single day out from Verona
Lake Garda or Venice for one free day from Verona: how each trip works by train and bus, what a day there holds, and the planning traps for each.
Climbing the Torre dei Lamberti or taking the lift, and what the bells are called
How to choose between the stairs and the lift up the Torre dei Lamberti, and what the tower's two medieval bells are called.
Crossing the Scaliger bridge at Castelvecchio and what the rebuilt battlements hide
How to cross the Ponte Scaligero at Castelvecchio and read the castle's rebuilt walls, bridge, and Scarpa museum.
Getting from Verona airport to the old town, and what to do with your bags
How the Airlink shuttle, taxis and the walk up from Porta Nuova station get you into Verona's old town, and how to plan around your luggage.
Going to a summer play or concert in the Roman Theater above the river
How to visit Verona's Roman theater by day and return for a summer play or concert on the modern stage above it.
How Piazza dei Signori became the stately room next door to the market square
How Verona's political square evolved from Scaliger palaces to a Venetian showpiece beside the market.
How Ponte Pietra was pulled out of the Adige stone by stone and put back together
How Verona's oldest bridge was blown up in 1945 and rebuilt from its own recovered stones.
How to spot the Roman city gate that Corso Porta Borsari walks straight through
How to find and read Porta Borsari, the Roman gate on Corso Porta Borsari, from its carved facade to its dated inscription.
Juliet's House is a story Verona chose to tell, and still worth an hour
The Casa di Giulietta is tied to Romeo and Juliet by literary tradition, not record. What the city built there, what to look at, and how entry works.
Reading the Scaliger Tombs, from Cangrande's rider to the iron ladders in the railings
A guide to the della Scala family tombs beside Santa Maria Antica, from Cangrande's rider to the ironwork in the railings.
The Duomo is really a cluster of churches, and how to see all of them in one visit
The Duomo is a cluster of linked buildings near the Adige; here is how to see every part in one visit.
The hunchbacks holding up the holy water stoups in Sant'Anastasia, and what else to look for
A guide to the hunchback water-stoups, Pisanello's fresco, and the other details worth seeking out inside Sant'Anastasia.
Visiting the Arena by day, when the opera sets are stacked outside its walls
How to read Verona's Roman arena as a monument, even in the months when opera staging crowds its ring.
Walking up to Castel San Pietro on the steps instead of taking the funicular
How to climb the steps to Castel San Pietro instead of the funicular, and what to expect along the way.
What an evening of opera in the Arena is like, from the gates to the last act
Seats, dress, bags, candles, rain delays and the walk out: how an opera night inside Verona's Roman amphitheater actually unfolds, step by step.
What is inside Palazzo Maffei, the museum watching over Piazza delle Erbe
A baroque facade, a Roman temple underfoot, and a private collection turned house museum above Piazza delle Erbe.
What the archaeological museum in the old convent above the Roman Theater holds
How the climb from the Roman theater to the convent museum above it rewards visitors with Roman finds and river views.
What the market stalls, the fountain and the frescoed houses of Piazza delle Erbe tell you
How Verona's oldest square moved from Roman forum to medieval market, and what its fountain, houses and towers still show visitors today.
Where the letters to Juliet go, and who writes the replies
Who writes back to Juliet, and why a medieval merchant's house became the stage for Verona's most famous love story.
Where to stand for the view of the Adige loop in the morning and at sunset
The terrace below Castel San Pietro looks across the Adige at the whole old town. How to get up, what you see, and how the light changes morning to dusk.
Why Piazza Bra is the square where every walk in Verona seems to begin
The history behind Piazza Bra's gates, gardens and grand buildings, and how to read them on a single walk.
Why the Giusti Garden's cypress avenue and its mask on the hill are worth the walk across the river
A sixteenth-century garden in Veronetta climbs from clipped parterres to a cypress avenue and a grotesque mask on the hill.
Next on the list
Questions queued for the journal, written one at a time.